When the kit arrived, I just couldn’t make up my mind as to which kind of sword I wanted the model to have, the Excalibur (pointy ended) blade or the squared off blade. Looking closely at the kit, and being a massive fan of magnets, I realised that with a bit of work…
So I set about working out a way to be able to swap between the blades, and figured I might as well show others how I did it so they can have both as well!
A revised version of the instructions can be found here. There were a few mistakes in the instructions included with the set, but now they have been cleared up. I found the PDF instructions were better than the ones included in the box for two reasons, they included the editing needed and the pictures/part numbers were much clearer and easier to read/understand.
Now, on to the tutorial!
Equipment needed for the job!
- Round disc magnets. I use 3*1mm and 3*2mm. This means 3mm wide, and 1/2mm thick.
- Hobby drill. I use one for each of the different sized bits.
- 1mm and 3mm drill bits.
- Hobby Clippers & Super Glue.
Step 1: Parts D2 and D3.
- Carefully remove the round locating tab from D2. I used a set of clippers, and then shaved off the remainder with a hobby knife.
- In the center of the removed circle tab, use the 1mm drill bit/drill to mark and drill a guiding hole. It is more accurate to use the 1mm bit first as it is easier to eyeball the center of the circle. An alternative method is to use a hobby knife and brand new hobby blade, placing the point of the blade in the center point of the circle and spinning the handle to create a shallow guide hole.
- Take the 3mm drill bit/drill and create 4 holes for magnets, as shown in the picture.
- Pour a little superglue into each hole, and position the magnets into the holes being careful to align them to attract. I used four 3*2mm disc magnets.
- Note that you do not use the screw as indicated on the instructions, rather the magnets hold the arm in place instead.
The finished result should look something like this:
Step 2: Parts D1 & Excalibur Sword
- For each sword, collect four 3*1mm disc magnets.
- I forced the magnets into the smaller holes, finding that they fit perfectly and held well without glue. Ensure they are sitting flush with the surface on both sides.
Step 3: Part BB2
- This is the most difficult step of the process. You will need two 3*2mm disc magnets. Place a small amount of super glue into the hole on one side of BB2. I used an old hobby knife to carefully position a magnet into the hole, so that it is flush on the inside of the part. This step is repeated with the hole on the other side, however great care needs to be taken in order to ensure that the magnets are aligned to attract one another as the sword magnets will sit between these two.
Here, you can see the magnets are flush with the inside of the piece.
Time to see it in action!
Step 4: Parts DD1A, DD1B
- With part DD1a, use a set of hobby clippers or a blade to cut the part into two sections. You want to remove the inside section of the “pin” so that you have two sections that look like DD1B. These are then glued to the outside sections of magnets of part BB2 from the previous step.
Step 5: Part D4
- Glue part D4 onto the removable section of the arm (part D3) to cover the magnet.
I found that the hydraulics on the front bicep (upper arm) came out of their housings and fell off the model too easily. I decided to magnetise these to stop this from occurring.
Step 1: Parts CC2
- The hole already made in this part is just a little larger than needed for magnets. I used one 3*2mm and one 3*1mm magnet together and glued them into the hole on each CC2. Take care to align the magnets so that the holes of each are attracted together.
Step 2: Part D2
- Collect part D2 and carefully remove the tabs that parts CC2 sit on. I used clippers, followed by a hobby knife to shave off the parts the clippers didn’t cut.
- Using a 1mm drill bit/drill, drill a guide hole (Say that three times quickly! =) in the center of where you removed a tab.
- Using the 3mm drill bit/drill, drill a hole through part D2. Be careful to align this hole straight so that it comes out in the same place on the other side.
- Collect two 3*2mm disc magnets. Place a small amount of super glue into the hole, and push the magnets into the hole so they are flush on either side.
(Here you can see how parts CC2 attract one another, as mentioned in step 1)
I also decided to magnetise the shield for two purposes; one, in case I want to field the model without it, and two, it will be easier to paint the arm and shield if they are separate. I think I mustn’t have tightened the screw in the elbow enough as there wasn’t the same level of rigidity needed to maintain different poses that other joints allowed. In order to stop the bicep hydraulics (CC2 and CC1) from continually separating, I placed a small pin through one of the teeth of the gears in the elbow to limit it’s travel.
Wazza Out. =D